The vibrancy of central London on a rare hot summer’s day is incomparable. People of all backgrounds, ages and professions endure the heat and jostle for space in a winding labyrinth as they go about their day.
This hustle and bustle is no recent phenomena, as these streets have been frequented for nearly 2,000 years.
Thankfully, as I step through the front doors of One Aldwych, the chaos of the British capital all but vanishes. I emerge into a scene of calm sophistication.
Located in Covent Garden, this five-star hotel is an oasis of luxury in London’s historic West End, making it the perfect base for enjoying the world-class entertainment surrounding it, while also being just a stone’s throw from the City, London’s historic center and primary business district.
Fiercely independent, the hotel offers quintessential British five-star luxury with its own unique flavor.
This five-star hotel is an oasis of luxury in London’s historic West End.
My home for the weekend is the Waterloo Bridge Suite, a breathtaking apartment with almost every conceivable luxury. From an extensive range of complimentary refreshments and snacks, a Nespresso machine with curated coffee blends, premium bathroom products from British luxury brand Mitchell & Peach, a Bang & Olufsen speaker and an extravagant king-sized bed, no detail is spared.
To top it off, I am treated to a stunning view of the suite’s namesake bridge, which stretches across the iconic River Thames, connecting cyclists, black cabs and red double-decker buses to London’s South Bank. Up here, the rush of the city feels distant and trivial.
After I’ve unpacked, I decide it’s time to make use of One Aldwych’s impressive leisure facilities. Nestled in the basement is an 18-meter, chlorine-free swimming pool, a real rarity in central London, where the furore of Covent Garden above is a world away. Virtually unaccompanied, I enjoy 30 serene minutes lapping the pool, before heading to the sauna and steam room to reach further meditative bliss.
Culinary indulgence
Having worked up quite an appetite, luckily I have an evening of culinary indulgence ahead of me in One Aldwych’s signature restaurant, Indigo, and its uniquely dairy and gluten-free menu.
Its location, nestled above the lobby bar, gives the restaurant a buzzy atmosphere while retaining a sense of intimacy. As I take my seat, live jazz emerges from the band below, providing the experience with an elegant soundtrack.
My meal starts with an aperitif of Chapel Down, a crisp and floral sparkling wine made in the vineyards of England’s south-east.
I am then transported the length of the British Isles to its northern extremity by my delicious starter: seared Orkney scallops. Soft, sweet and creamy, they are perfectly accompanied by confit chicken thigh and basil, and taste as if they had been lifted from the brisk seas of northern Scotland just moments beforehand.
While this hotel nails all the traditional hallmarks of five-star luxury, its uncompromising authenticity truly sets it apart.
For my main I have the dayboat lemon sole, which once again demonstrates the chef’s masterful command of flavor. The filet is delicate and velvet-smooth, and paired skillfully with a complex Bouillabaisse sauce, saffron mayonnaise and roasted fennel to produce a symphony for the palate.
I just about squeeze in a dessert, as I can’t resist the allure of the vanilla panna cotta, accompanied by poached peach and a peach sorbet. Unsurprisingly, it is fantastic.
With my hunger now very much satiated, it is now time to explore the excitement that surrounds me. As I head out into Covent Garden I am greeted by the noise and humidity of the evening. I head in the direction of Soho, to enjoy the historic and pulsating Victorian pubs on my doorstep.
After I’ve spent a lively evening catching up with some old friends over a pint, it’s time to call it a night. I head back to the sanctuary of my suite, which has been carefully prepared for a good night’s rest.
Hidden in plain sight
I awake peacefully, feeling refreshed by my bedroom’s unbridled comfort. This was just as well, as excitement awaited me. One Aldwych’s most unique offering is its four curators. These are four experts in the fields of history, culture and the arts who offer bespoke tours of the city’s hotspots and hidden gems, giving guests a glimpse into the ‘real’ London beyond the well-beaten tourist trail.
I have the pleasure of a guided tour with the writer, historian, broadcaster and One Aldwych curator Matthew Green. Green is not only a leading global voice on the history of London, but also a highly skilled, amiable and engaging tour guide. Over two delightful hours, Green and I traverse the nooks and crannies of London’s historic center, which One Aldwych itself is right at the heart of. I am taken to countless spots that, although unassuming to the uninitiated, hold monumental significance in both British and world history.
Mere steps away from the hotel is the site of one of the city’s legendary coffee houses, the Grecian. Here, the miracle new beverage turned 17th-century London into a cradle of the Enlightenment, where Londoners challenged social structures and religion, and made crucial scientific breakthroughs. Green paints a vivid picture of a certain Isaac Newton, who in this very establishment carried the carcass of a dolphin through the front door, slammed it down on the table and proceeded to dissect it in front of an astonished audience.
One Aldwych’s most unique offering is its four curators.
We carry on through the blissful tranquility of Inner Temple, where Green casually points to the church that witnessed the world’s first-ever performance of Romeo and Juliet, and where William Shakespeare himself performed.
Onwards we go, navigating through narrow, cobbled alleys toward Fleet Street, where we arrive at the churchyard that saw the advent of modern publishing in the late 1400s, paving the way for the area to become a center of global publishing for centuries to come. My tour ends in the shadow of the magnificent St Paul’s Cathedral, which despite being firmly on the beaten track, never fails to amaze.
On my return to One Aldwych, some relaxation is well in order. Luckily, I find solace in the library, a cozy space opposite the Lobby Bar, where I can quietly reflect on a thoroughly enjoyable and insightful experience.
Go your own way
After an afternoon basking in the sweltering summer sun in Green Park, I feel the pull of the Lobby Bar. This magnificent space greets you immediately as you enter the hotel, and hums with activity at all hours of the day. Each drink on its menu is inspired by a piece of art in the hotel’s rich private collection.
I order the horseradish martini, which is infused with horseradish distillate and pickled onion juice, and definitely not for the faint of heart. The drink is inspired by The Boatman, the imposing bronze sculpture of a lone oarsman that towers over the Lobby Bar. Both the sculpture and the cocktail symbolize One Aldwych’s fierce independence, and this determination to do things its own way is what underpins the hotel’s appeal.
It is often easy to follow the crowd and embrace hackneyed traditions. But only by breaking the mold and doing things a little differently can progress be made and a unique experience provided. So while this hotel nails all the traditional hallmarks of five-star luxury, its uncompromising commitment to authenticity is what truly sets it apart.
I drain the last of my cocktail and retire to my suite to look over the midnight bustle of Waterloo Bridge for one final time. I begrudgingly check out the following morning, yet safe in the knowledge I have discovered a hidden oasis of luxury in London’s hair-raising epicenter.
