At the end of the made road, I check the signs. Gstaad here, Schönried there. Is that correct? Schönried points mockingly through a grassy field. Slightly dumbfounded, I look back in the direction of Gstaad and the path already trekked. The slate turrets of my hotel rest gently in the mountain, swaddled in soaring pines and guarded by the snow-capped peaks of Switzerland’s Saanenland region.
Turning towards the field, I spy a pencil-thin trail of squashed grass, the only evidence of erstwhile human trudging, or goat perhaps. I shrug and enter the soggy meadow, completely alone and excruciatingly happy, my senses fuelled by crisp alpine air, distant cowbells, and the gentle maiden heat of summer.
Is that me yodelling?
God’S Handprint
The Gstaad–Saanenland holiday region lies in the vast wilderness of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland. Beautiful views from some of Europe’s highest mountain peaks, dense forests, waterfalls, historical villages, and more than 800 lakes make this one of the most diverse and picturesque environments in the world.
According to legend, God rested here during the creation. The imprint of his hand shaped this breathtaking landscape with his fingers forming five rolling valleys, with Gstaad curled up in their palm. Following months of snow cover, the summer terrain glows like a fresh-faced newborn, leaving the rest of the world looking grey in comparison.
To reach Gstaad, the GoldenPass railway snakes through rain-soaked valleys, chasing rivers and hugging ridges. The three-hour journey from Montreux, a colourful Swiss city clinging to the eastern edge of central Europe’s mammoth Lake Geneva, runs daily like Swiss clockwork.
My first impressions of Gstaad village are plagued by clichés: picture-book, chocolate box and quaint. It’s like a Christmas diorama: a tiny, shiny village nestled in snow-dusted Alps in its own misty utopia. The village centre is reputed as the most popular and shortest ‘shopping mile’ in Switzerland, the promenade dotted with luxury boutiques. Eighteen restaurants mingle with impeccably maintained chalets, embodying the traditional Swiss style that has moulded this region’s identity for centuries.
Mountain peaks, dense forests, waterfalls, historical villages and more than 800 lakes make this one of the most diverse and picturesque environments in the world.
Since the 30s, an impressive parade of wealthy guests and celebrities has laid claim to Gstaad as their discreet alpine hideaway. The official Gstaad website quotes legendary Mary Poppins’ actress Julie Andrews as declaring: “Gstaad is the last paradise in a crazy world.” High-altitude ski resort Glacier 3000 is just up the road from the village, but during summer months it’s all about swimming, mountain biking, river rafting, paragliding, golfing and hiking through a trail network that covers more than 300 kilometres.
Sunshine mountain
As my walk continues between Gstaad and Schönried, I trudge through muddy paths, follow creek beds, and traipse through paddocks. Eventually reaching the road proper to Schönried a whole 90 minutes after leaving the luxuries of my hotel, I arrive at the resort village, legs burning and body pining for the soothing jets of a bubbling spa. At least, for the next part, respite comes dressed as a cable car for the final ascent.
Living up to its name, Sunshine Mountain is drenched in glorious Swiss summer rays. As the Rellerli cable car jolts and sways 600 metres to the summit, I’m awestruck by infinite velvet fields draped over peak after steep peak like freshly mown lawns, occasionally hijacked by clusters of forest and the odd dot of a farm house. From here I see evidence of those divine fingerprints as two valleys are pressed into the landscape.
Disembarking at the peak, clean air filling my lungs, I could summon the energy to tackle the hiking and biking paths that wind through the valley, but my coffee hankering is much too great. I settle on the deck some 1,833 metres above Saanenland at Rellerli Mountain Restaurant with my pricey cappuccino to watch a group of local school kids scream down one of the fastest summer toboggan runs in Switzerland.
By mid afternoon, Sunshine Mountain becomes a shadow-mottled canvas. As the cable car edges down the mountain towards Schönried, I check the train timetable and realise I could reach Gstaad in just seven minutes. Instead, I choose to retrace my million steps and mentally ready my legs for the trek ‘home’.
Walking again, and Nirvana’s ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ blares from someone’s garage. I wander past a family of 60 smiling gnomes and stop to photograph a piece of home — a Hills Hoist in the front yard of a delightful Swiss mountain home.
I imagine by the end of summer these skinny, grassy paths will be well-worn tracks and I am thankful for the opportunity to witness the birth of summer in this wintry, fabled land. A text from a friend in response to the many photos I’ve posted says: “High on a hill was a lonely goat.” A herd of actual goats stare, bemused at the wobbly, chuckling human shuffling towards her prize. That spa.
Alpine chic accommodation
Since opening in 2012, The Alpina Gstaad (which was presented the Forbes Travel Guide Five Star award in 2019) has set a new benchmark for alpine luxury. Multi-awarded for friendliness, accommodation, dining and its deluxe ski-spa, the 56-room resort embodies luxurious Swiss elegance from its imposing position above the village. Farmhouse appeal and ski-chalet poise meld easily with the exquisite contemporary design.
As I’m here in shoulder season, the already discounted room rate seems like a token gesture thanks to a sweet suite upgrade. The elegantly appointed room with fine furnishings, timber-clad walls and carved ceilings sports two balconies, like wide-open eyes to the Alps, hovering over the bright landscape. The Alpina Gstaad projects its resort to “the world’s most discerning travellers”, and it’s a fair call.
Downstairs, the Six Senses Spa is as big as a planet in an exquisite, indulgent universe of its own. First, that hot spa where the jets pummel the fatigue from my legs. Next, a swim in the 25-metre indoor pool. Floating supine, staring through the giant skylight into the softening sky, I plan my next move: the juice lounge, icy plunge pool or monsoon ‘experience’ shower? But healing salt therapy beckons, and 30 minutes later I toy with sleep, completely relaxed in the eerie glow of the Himalayan salt grotto.
Multi-awarded for friendliness, accommodation, dining and its deluxe ski-spa, the 56-room resort embodies luxurious Swiss elegance from its imposing position above the village.
Suitably pampered, the only decision left to make today is where to eat. From the resort’s Japanese concept restaurant, Michelin-starred MEGU, or equally starred Sommet restaurant, to the Alpina Lounge & Bar, I needn’t travel far and the latter wins the toss. So, with a magazine in hand, I nestle on a big, comfy couch with an eclectic view of the mist-cloaked outdoor pool, terrace and mountain silhouettes. I watch the exuberant evening crowd file in — all the while hungrily devouring a magnificent dal makhani by Michelin chef Marcus G Lindner, switching it between lap and coffee table over a glass of delicious Chablis.
Two days later, I’m honestly the saddest I’ve ever been checking out of a hotel. The resort chauffeur runs me and my memories to Gstaad train station, generously escorting me through pouring rain to the ticket office for my trip to Zweisimmen. Smiling, he presents me with a bag containing lollies and bottled water, gives me a fabulously engineered broad umbrella, and bids farewell. “See you again soon, Mrs Hayden,” he says with a knowing smile. Yes, you will, my friend. As I write this, my flight is already booked.
Where to stay
With views, accommodation and service that’s second to none, the luxury resort of The Alpina Gstaad also boasts an exclusive spa, two Michelin-starred restaurants and a swimming pool. thealpinagstaad.ch
What to do
Winter is all about skiing, snowboarding and après-ski. In summer, choose from hiking, swimming, golf, rafting, paragliding and mountain biking, among other outdoor pursuits. Visiting chocolate-box villages and riding cable cars are essential at any time of year.
How to get there
Several airlines fly from Australia’s major cities to Geneva International Airport with one layover. Gstaad is a two-hour drive or a two-and-a-half-hour train ride from Geneva, and a three-hour train ride from Montreux.
More information
