New Executive Chef Daniel Menzies at The Wilmot restaurant in Primus Hotel Sydney has wasted no time in introducing his new spring menu.
The Primus itself is an interesting contrast in décor – the renovated former Water Board building boasts an eclectic mix of 1930s Art Deco grandeur lightened by some modern features.
Menzies fits right in with the theme of old and new as he’s equally at home with classic fine dining and more modern, experimental cooking styles.
With more than 18 years of experience in the industry, Menzies has worked with celebrity chefs Guy Savoy, Daniel Hughes and Guillaume Brahimi. More recently, he spearheaded the opening of Bistro Moncur in Mosman.
According to Italy’s Academia Barilla, menus from the Art Deco period take into account the month, occasion and time of day of the meal. In keeping with that sentiment, Menzies says: “The location and restoration of the hotel and its history is an exciting opportunity for me to share my passion for fresh, seasonal produce with a creative flair and offer a unique new menu for our CBD clientele.”
Signature dishes include an entrée of kangaroo tartare with capsicum jam and artichoke crisps, and pork belly with spanner crab, squash and zucchini spaghetti.
However, for our entrées, we opted for the pumpkin soufflé gratin, and yellowfin tuna with calamondin and kohlrabi. The soufflé was rich and creamy, a real treat. A fusion approach was subtle throughout, for the soufflé came in an Indian ‘balti’, and the tuna was served with pappadams.
For mains, we choose the barramundi with witlof in a tomato consommé, and the chef’s personal recommendation, Wagyu shoulder oyster blade ‘cooked two ways’. The consommé was almost better than the main event. And for someone who normally doesn’t eat it, the crispy skin was equally good.
The slow-braised and pan-seared portions of the steak offered an interesting mix of textures and was easily our favourite. A bottle of Wynns ‘The Gables’ Cabernet Sauvignon was the perfect complement to the melt-in-the-mouth meat.
Thankfully, the desserts on offer were light and airy. We opted for the yoghurt honeycomb parfait with fresh berries, and vanilla crème légère with shortbread and strawberry granita. A perfect ending – couldn’t have eaten another thing.
For more information and bookings visit www.primushotelsydney.com or phone
(02) 8027 8000.
