Once again, London’s hotel restaurant scene is on the move. While places like The Ritz continue in practically the same style as when they opened, big-hitters like Marcus at The Berkeley and Roux at the Landau have closed their doors forever – just as some of the biggest, shiniest doors the capital has ever seen are thrown open for business.
For this is the era of the super-hotel; the time of room rates starting over the £1,000 (US$1,270) mark and innovative in-house restaurants chartered by Michelin-starred chefs.
Take Mauro Colagreco for example. The triple Michelin-starred Argentinian chef – and UNESCO biodiversity ambassador – has recently set up shop at Raffles London at The OWO. However, this isn’t a white-tableclothed, French-flourished spot. This restaurant is all about quality British produce – to the point where every course is served with a watercolor painting of its hero vegetable.
“Our primary goal is to consistently pay homage to the gastronomic terroir of the region,” Colagreco explains. “We meticulously explored the diversity of the British culinary landscape, both celebrated and forgotten, and uncovered an impressive array of 70 varieties of vegetables and fruits… We offer London diners the opportunity to reconnect with their culinary roots and provide a dining experience that goes beyond the ordinary.”
It’s not just Colagreco in town, though. Claude Bosi has arrived on the rooftop of the shiny new Peninsula London; sushi master Shinji Kanesaka has created one of London’s best – and most expensive – omakase restaurants at 45 Park Lane; and 16 Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno has opened the London outpost of Paris’ Pavyllon at Four Seasons Park Lane.
So, we’ve rounded up the best new hotel restaurants in the city right now – and keep an eye out for newcomers Akira Back at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair, The Emory and Mimosa at The Langham, all due to open next year.
Mauro Colagreco, Raffles London at The OWO
Fine dining is an art form at Mauro Colagreco’s British debut. Literally. Each dish of the five-course ‘land and sea’ menu is served with a watercolour print of its hero vegetable, elevating even the simplest of ingredients to rockstar status – we’re not kidding when we say you’ll leave with a newfound appreciation for lettuce. Say yes to the wine pairing and the cheese course, which is wheeled in on a trolley with a cheese sommelier in tow.
Brooklands, The Peninsula London
The Peninsula London is quite literally a culinary utopia from head to toe. Starting from the top, spectacular rooftop restaurant Brooklands is inspired by the classic eras of British aviation and motorsport, serving modern British cuisine from Michelin-starred chef director Claude Bosi. Go for the tasting menus that show off the very best British produce; stay for the terrace views and stellar Brooklands bar.
Canton Blue, The Peninsula London
Taking the ground floor of The Peninsula London, Canton Blue bills itself as ‘celebrating the convergence of Asian and British cultures’. In real life, this looks like a ship-inspired space with a dual-aspect fireplace and an à la carte Cantonese menu filled with dishes like Peking duck, blue lobster and black truffle tofu. Prefer something lighter? Sit in the tea lounge and order tea and dim sum while cosied up next to the fire.
Sushi Kanesaka, 45 Park Lane
The hottest omakase in town right now, this 13-seat counter is hidden upstairs at 45 Park Lane and is led by sushi master – and namesake chef – Shinji Kanesaka. Every detail is so carefully thought through that guests are asked to not wear perfume to limit distractions – presumably so you get maximum enjoyment out of the 18 sublime courses that land on the hand-carved wooden counter.
Pavyllon London, Four Seasons Park Lane
Yannick Alléno is no stranger to a Michelin star – after all, he has 16 of them spread across his 17 restaurants. So, he’s probably going for another at his latest restaurant, Pavyllon at Four Seasons Park Lane – the London outpost of his popular Parisian concept. It’s a chic space with lots of natural wood and greenery, and the menu is both elegant and expansive, covering everything from croque monsieurs to a full-throttle tasting menu.
